24 June - We checked out of the Hotel Garden at Levanto, a lovely hotel I would recommend it to anyone, we had a balcony room looking over the street and sea.  Leaving our bags at the hotel for pick up to go to the next hotel - Hotel Paradiso in Portovenere. 



Madonna del Montenero

We caught the train to Riomaggoire arriving about 10:30am, we hoped to catch a bus to Madonna del Montenero but they didn't leave until 12:30pm and the walk was only a one hour walk straight up the mountainside so we decided that this would be the option for us.  To reach Madonna del Montenero we walked up many steps and a muletrack, walking through pine forest and vineyards as well as having views over Riomaggoire from Montenero.



Behind the sanctuary is some National Parks Rental Lodges which we past continuing through more pine forest and vineyards to reach the hamlet of Lemmen and then uphill to Telegrafo, where we decided to have lunch as it was 1pm on a Sunday and we didn't know what times the restaurants would be open to.  We waited for 30 minutes with no service so we decided to walk on to the halfway point Campiglia which was my original plan. 

Part of the path to Telegrafo

After leaving the restaurant we walked past an Alpine Festival on the edge of the pine forest and past a workout circuit which Trevor and I tried out one of the stages, walking on bars hanging down on chains, challenging after hiking about 2 hours.  We descended to the village of Campiglia where we had lunch at La Lampara recommended by Peregrine Adventures, which has a shaded dining area under what we think was a kiwifruit vine.  Trevor had lasagna with mushrooms and a steak while I went with the giant prawns. 

La Lampara

After the refuel stop we walked past a stone tower, through pine forest again and over a red marble outcrop on the edge of the mountain, no falling here!  We saw Palmaria (the island we are to hike the following day, weather permitting) and San Pietro in the distance.  We decided to take the extra side trip up to the Muzzerone Fortress because we haven't already walked enough, which is not open to the public as it belongs to the military.  On the way up to the fortress we past a marble quarry, after seeing the fortress we walked down the mountain along a "path" of scree to Portovenere's harbour with stunning views of Palmaria and Portovenere, arriving at the hotel at 6:30pm.  This was an easier walk than the one from Riomaggoire to Monterosso.  Our room is located next to the stairs so I have been opting to walk up and down it rather than taking the lift so there must be fuel still in the tank.

Marble Quarry

 Monday 25th we boarded the 10am ferry from Portovenere to Terrizzo, Palmaria, an island just in front of Portovenere.  We walked to two fortresses, we had views of Tino an island in front of Palmaria, which has a lighthouse on it.  Visited Pozzale a village within military grounds which you can walk through if you stay to the path, continuing along the beach to an abandoned mining village and marble quarry, where we saw two goats in the distance on the old quarry.  We walked through more pine forest to a place where you can see the French Alps on a clear day, not today.  We tried to find Fortress Cavour with no success and followed the track labelled "dificule", that it was, with stone "steps" of all sizes, shapes, angles, scree, dirt and leaves.  On reaching the bottom we continued around to the ferry jetty where we had lunch at a restaurant and then a 40 minute swim in the clear and refreshing Mediterranean, before returning on the ferry. 

Another goat sighted along the track

After a brief nap at the hotel we went exploring Portovenere, visiting San Pietro built on the ruins of a Roman temple to Venus.  We saw Grotta dell' Arpaia known as Byron's Grotto and then continued to Doria Castle and saw San Lorenzo, cemetery and the old town gate.

San Pietro, Portovenere.

European Holiday Prep 22 - 23 June

Where will I start to explain the second full day of our stay in Levanto?  Peregrine Adventures had given us tracks to follow as the trip is self guided.  The day before people had told us that the walk was easier than the one from Levanto to Monterosso the day before.  We had also heard that a railway strike may be happening.  We walked to the train station, validated the Cinque Terre Card at the station and then asked about the train.  They said it will be arriving but was delayed due to the strike.  We had also been told by people the day before that the track from Corniglia to Varnazza was closed.  We also asked at the Cinque Terre Information Desk about the track and they said it was closed from Manarola to Corniglia and due to the trains on strike we would have to get a ferry from Manarola to Vernazza meaning that we would be only walking half the distance. 

Riomaggoire

So Trevor and I decided that we would explore Riomaggorie and Manarola extensively.  The train from Levanto to Riomaggorie was 40 minutes late but still arrived.  Riomaggorie was amazingly beautiful and mountainous hence the streets were steep steps and narrow alley ways.  It was an easy walk from Riomaggorie to Manarola, which is another mountainous village on the edge of the Mediterranean.  We spent about an hour in both villages and took hundreds of photos, not a figure of speak. 



Manarola

Manarola

We bought some fruit for a good price, the cherries were yummy and large and sat on a seat near the start of the "Walk of Love".  After our cheap lunch of fruit we walked as far as we could along the "Walk of Love", which is on the edge of the Mediterranean.  This walk is very popular and the crowds were large but did not spoil the walk, the path is still cut by the landslide caused by the flood in this region on the 25th of October 2011.  We walked as far as we could and then returned to Manarola and explored the outer streets of the village, where we stumbled across a path leading to another village along the path we were to take that day, so we decided to see how far we could go on this track.

Walk of Love

Not far into the walk we meet some Austrians who said they started at Monterosso and walked all the way.  They informed us it was a six hour walk, by this stage it was getting late about three in the afternoon.  This path goes through the mountains to Corniglia.  The walk was hard going with very steep steps up and down the mountains and gullies, along tiny paths which the ground then drops away down the mountainside, no falling here!  We walked through vineyards and forests but the views over each of the villages were mind blowing, making the walk worthwhile. 

Track through vineyards to Corniglia

Nothing could have prepared me for the walk, as none of the walks around the Macleay Valley Coast are as high, steep or have as many steps.  Think the steps to Ellenbourough Falls over and over again.  We did the walk in 30 degree weather and I was wearing jeans and a singlet top. 

The track from Vernazza to Monterosso

I sweated like never before, likewise with the amount of water I drank that day.  We stopped at Corniglia for lunch, very sore and tired.  The night before I stayed up late writing the previous blog, until 1am, having only had 4 hours sleep that morning, I think I had done well. 

Looking back at Corniglia

The walk from Corniglia to Vernazza was very similar with steep steps up and down the mountainsides.  When we arrived at Vernazza we rested at the harbour with a cold bottle of water before setting off to Monterosso. 

Vernazza

The end in near, Monterosso

It was already 7:00pm by this stage with a two hour walk ahead of us.  Trevor had wanted to catch a train or ferry back, but I insisted on us doing the walk.  Again it was steep, climbing the mountains above the villages.  We arrived in Monterosso at 8:30pm and made our way to the train station but the train was delayed for some time due to the strike.  We arrived back at Levanto by about 9:00pm making this 15 kilometre walk into a 10 hour hike.  If you are fit and a serious hiker, take this track as the views are very rewarding.

Saturday 23 June - Today we woke a little tender from the previous day but not too bad.  We opted for a shorter version of the walk, catching a train from Levanto to Monterosso, buying a lemon juice slushy in Monterosso before boarding a bus which drives 15 minutes up the mountainside behind Monterosso.  We walked further up the mountainside to reach Madonna di Saviour.  We had a look inside of the church which was very beautiful with old paintings and the foundations of an eighth century church which once stood on the site. 

Madonna di Saviour

After a break amongst the trees next to the church we walked through Mediterranean shrub land where the wild flowers were in bloom.  This track is narrow with weeds growing next to the edge of the path.  Usually I wear jeans when bush walking due to snakes and to protect against scraps and cuts.  The first day I did not wear jeans the walk was lined with thorny weeds which grew towards the path making it hard to see if there are any snakes, which Trevor saw a black one on this section of the path.

No photo of the weeds but a view over Vernazza along the walk.  We will reach this village at the end.

We walked onto to Madonna di Reggio with statues of Joseph and Mary and a grotto below it with a running water fountain and another which runs continuously from the tap. 

Statue of Mary (Madonna) at Madonna di Reggio

Heading further down the mountainside we walked past many shrines with marble pictures depicting scenes from the Bible or of Mary (Madonna).  Along this path we also saw a snake make its way from off the side of a stone wall and slither under a rock at the base of the wall, very close to us.  The path continued past a cemetery where the coffin and body is placed in rectangle sections of a cement wall (think like a high rise of graves). 

Cemetery

Still heading down hill we arrived in Varnazza where we caught the train back to Levanto, after I had bought locally made perfume, scented with a unique scent for each of the places in the Cinque Terre area.  I chose Porto Venere only because we will be staying there, from tomorrow.       



The 17th of June 2012, my brother, Trevor and I boarded the 2:30am flight from Brisbane to Singapore with Emirates.  With an one hour stop over before flying onto Dubai with a three hour stopover before arriving at Venice Airport at 8:30pm on the same day. 

Dubai Airport

We boarded a ferry to Venice and saw the city at night.  After disembarking from the ferry we took a look at San Marco before checking into Hotel Serenissima, which is in a great location.

 

Me at Hotel Serenissima with the kitchen staff at breakfast.

The next morning (18 June) we took an early morning walk to Railto Bridge before breakfast. 

Trevor at Rialto Bridge

We walked to San Marco and arrived half an hour before it opened and the queue was small so we lined up.  Just before it opened a tour guide told people in the queue that she does English tours.  We took the tour and it was great to have everything explained.  We paid extra to visit the Pala O'doro, which is an alter made with hundreds of gems of rubies, pearls, emeralds and so much more.  Another part we paid extra to see was the Treasury with items from the medieval times. 

San Marco Basilica

Outside of San Marco Basilica  and past the Doge Palace is the Bridge of Sighs.  From here we paid the 100 Euros to take a 40 minute gondola ride around the canals, it is a different way to see Venice. 



Our Gondola Driver

By this time the crowds was unbelievably busy so we returned to the street where our hotel was and did some shopping for Munro glass.  Once the day tripper left we caught a ferry from San Marco to Railto, along the Grand Canal but this was when the workers were leaving making it impossible to see the surrounds on the trip as we were standing up and couldn't see out the windows.  To finish off our day we had our first gelato here in Italy.

Lunch

19 June - A 4:30am start to see the sunrise over Venice, we had been recommended to see it from the Accademia, but due to our train departing early we had to leave before the sun hit this area, as it was bright before the sunrising on the canal due to the buildings being in the way.  

Venice nearing sunrise

 We took a ferry to the train station for the trip from Venice to Florence.  It was a fast train and was very comfortable, out the windows were views of flat countryside.We changed trains at Florence where a gypsie took the train tickets out of my hands, validated the tickets, grabbed my bags and got us on the right train, where she asked for money from both Trevor and I.  I paid her but hopefully we are more street wise next time, she did get us on the right train and showed us how to do things.  Travelling from Florence to Pisa we had beautiful views of Tuscany.  On arriving at Pisa we checked into HM Cavalieri and went for some lunch before catching a bus to see the Leaning Tower.  We visited Pisa Cathedral, which is full of beautiful artworks, marble floors and gold ceiling; Camposanto, a graveyard with a rose garden in the middle with soil from Cavalry, plus frescoes, marble floors with graves and Graeco- Roman sarcophagis; and the Leaning Tower of Pisa.  What an experience! as the steps are marble and are slippery and well worn.  As you walk up the stairs you are drawn towards one wall until the lean changes and you are drawn to the other side.  From the top you can walk around the edge with views of Pisa. 

Leaning Tower of Pisa and Pisa Cathedral

Dinner at a pub near the hotel where we stayed.

Dinner

Pisa to Calci to Levanto.  The next day we caught a bus to Calci, travelling through the countryside near Pisa.  We meet our guide at the Calci Charterhouse which I read about on twitter.  To go through the Charterhouse you must take a tour.  The building is amazing and the guide was so informative, it was originally built as to house monks who take a veil of silence, only allowed to talk for a couple hours per week.  The artworks were stunning, your eyes don't know where to look to try to take it in.  We visited some of the many chapels, the Grand Duke's apartment (many of the wealthy men of the time had their own apartments to come and relax when they wanted and a monks cell.  The monks no longer went by their names but a letter, on their death they were buried in a grave which had the standard cross and no name on it.  When more monks died they would push all the boned to the bottom of the grave and buried another monk in the same grave.  Afterwards we visited the Natural History Museum also in the Charterhouse.  The rooms which the museum is housed in was once the places for the animals and storerooms.  It was great to include the museum for its displays but to also see more of the charterhouse and the grounds.  Afterwards, Trevor and I went to the markets and saw the local church before heading back to Pisa. 

Calci Charterhouse, a real gem

That afternoon we travelled from Pisa to Levanto, passing Carrara where marble is quarried from the mountains which are white as they are marble on the surface as well.  We checked into the Hotel Garden in Levanto which has marble floors and located above the main street near the beach.  This is a good hotel and I would recommend it to anyone.  The staff are so hopeful and the accommodation is maintained to a high standard. 

Hotel Garden, Levanto

I heard that a room is usually 120 Euros a night but this is covered by the 7 day walking tour I won through Peregrine Adventures.  It is the Jewels of the Cinque Terre & Portovenere (self guided) http://www.peregrineadventures.com/europe/italy/jewels-cinque-terre-portovenere-self-guided-2010.  After checking in Trev and I went for a swim, the "sand" looks grey as it is made up of fine marble and stone.  The water was cold but not uncomfortable cold.  It is clear, calm and deep, when you look at the sand from in the water it looks like the bottom of a swimming pool. Later that evening we walked through four tunnels to reach Bonassola, a small version of Levanto.

Levanto

21 June was the first day of hiking the Cinque Terre.  Today we got up early to do some laundry before breakfast and then headed off for the day.  Today's walk was eight kilometres and started by walking up stairs next to one of my favourite buildings in the town.  We walked to Costello of Saint George and continued further up the mountain.  The walk is classed as a moderate walk and I would agree, some parts seem hard but once again on flat land you feel comfortable. 

Track 1 - Levanto to Monterosso

The walk is step and rocky but worth the walk, we walked through orchards and forest and the views from Santo Antonio of Fegina and Monterosso is exceptional.  When descending to Fegina we saw a tower, harbour and when we continued down to the street we saw a sculpture of a man or god holding up a building.  I did a little retail therapy before we walked to the watchtower and then descended to Monterosso, where we had lunch with views of the town and beach. 

Monterosso

Afterwards we explored Monterosso where I bought Justin a gift and we saw photos of the floods from last Autumn.  We then boarded the train to Levanto, on our return we had a swim in the cool water before doing the Levanto town walk.  This walk starts from the town square which was once the harbour, we walked to the church of Sant' Andrea and up the stairs to the Castello of St George.  We continued around to the Torre dell' Orologio (the clocktower), following the medieval wall around town back to the town square to see the Loggia (harbour)and continued to S. Giacomo and Nostra Signora della Costa (churches).

Stay tuned for more updates.